English vs French vs Spanish [lavender](/plants/lavender-care/) — which to grow where
I grow 'Munstead' lavender at my Long Island house -- specifically for the reason that it's an English lavender (*Lavandula angustifolia*) that overwintered reliably in zone 7a without the crown dieback I saw with other types I tried. I have two plants, now five years old, in the driest part of my.
—- title: "English vs French vs Spanish lavender — which to grow where" slug: best-lavender-cultivars hub: plants category: "Cultivar guide" description: "English, French, and Spanish lavender compared honestly by zone hardiness, fragrance, and longevity — with the best cultivars for cold climates, the South, and the West Coast." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 7 scientific: "Lavandula angustifolia, Lavandula stoechas, Lavandula x intermedia" zones_min: 5 zones_max: 9 sun: "full sun" —-
I grow 'Munstead' lavender at my Long Island house — specifically for the reason that it's an English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) that overwintered reliably in zone 7a without the crown dieback I saw with other types I tried. I have two plants, now five years old, in the driest part of my garden along the driveway edge where summer drainage is excellent. They've never had pest problems. In a wet summer the stems get a bit floppy but that's the only issue.
The English vs. French vs. Spanish distinction is often glossed over in garden center labeling, but it determines whether your lavender survives winter, whether it tolerates humidity, and whether the fragrance is what you expect.
The three main species
Per NC State Extension:
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): zones 5—8; compact, 12—24 inches tall; narrow gray-green leaves; tubular flowers in purple, pink, or white; blooms May—July; the most cold-hardy and the primary source of culinary and aromatic lavender; the "true" lavender of the perfume industry.
Lavandin (Lavandula × intermedia): hybrid of L. angustifolia and L. latifolia; zones 5—9; larger plant (24—36 in); more vigorous and higher oil yield than English lavender; includes cultivars 'Grosso', 'Hidcote Giant', 'Provence'; less compact than English types but excellent for cut flower and dried flower production.
French lavender (Lavandula dentata): zones 7—11; toothed gray-green leaves; blooms nearly continuously in mild climates; less fragrant than English; not reliably hardy below zone 7.
Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas): zones 7—9; distinctive "rabbit ear" bracts on flower tops; blooms earlier than English (spring); not reliably hardy below zone 7; popular in Pacific Coast gardens.
English lavender cultivars
'Munstead'
Zones: 5—8 per Missouri Botanical Garden Height: 12—18 in Flower color: Medium blue-purple Fragrance: Strong, classic lavender scent Notable trait: One of the most cold-hardy English lavender cultivars; reliable in zone 5
'Munstead' is named for Gertrude Jekyll's garden in Surrey, England, and is the most widely available dwarf English lavender in the US. Per Missouri Botanical Garden, it is reliably hardy to zone 5 with good drainage — which is the critical factor. Standing water in winter kills lavender faster than cold. I grow this on driveway gravel-amended soil in zone 7a and it has never had winter loss.
'Hidcote'
Zones: 5—8 Height: 12—18 in Flower color: Deep purple (darkest of the English types) Fragrance: Strong Notable trait: Compact, very dark flower color
Per NC State Extension, 'Hidcote' produces the deepest purple flower of any English lavender cultivar and is slightly more compact than 'Munstead'. Both are equivalent in cold hardiness. Per Penn State Extension, 'Hidcote' is among the most recommended English lavenders for cut flower production due to the vivid color and long stem length relative to plant size.
'Vera'
Zones: 5—9 Height: 24—30 in Flower color: Pale blue-purple Fragrance: Very strong; high essential oil content Notable trait: Grown commercially for oil production; larger than compact types
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, 'Vera' is a selection used in commercial lavender oil production. The essential oil content is higher than in compact types like 'Munstead' and 'Hidcote'. The larger plant is more appropriate for cutting gardens than for small borders.
'Ellagance Purple'
Zones: 5—8 Height: 14—16 in Flower color: Deep purple Notable trait: Bred for first-year blooming from seed; uniform habit
Per UMass Extension, 'Ellagance Purple' is one of the best English lavenders for uniform landscape use because it grows consistently from seed or plugs without the size variation seen in older selections.
Lavandin cultivars (Lavandula × intermedia)
'Grosso'
Zones: 5—9 Height: 24—36 in Flower color: Blue-purple Fragrance: Very strong; commercial lavender production standard Notable trait: The most widely grown lavender in Provence
Per Oregon State Extension, 'Grosso' is the primary commercial lavender in the Pacific Northwest, where lavandin's larger habit and high oil yield make it suited to the cooler, drier summers. It blooms later than English lavender — late June to July in most regions. The long, sturdy stems are excellent for dried flower arrangements. Per Missouri Botanical Garden, it is slightly less winter-hardy than English lavender in wet winter conditions.
'Provence'
Zones: 5—9 Height: 24—30 in Flower color: Soft blue-purple Fragrance: Strong but slightly sweeter than 'Grosso' Notable trait: Often sold as culinary lavender, though L. angustifolia types have cleaner culinary flavor
Per Penn State Extension, 'Provence' is slightly sweeter in fragrance than 'Grosso' and is often preferred for culinary use among lavandin types, though true English lavender cultivars ('Munstead', 'Hidcote') have the most traditional culinary lavender character.
Spanish and French lavender for mild climates
'Otto Quast' (Spanish, L. stoechas)
Zones: 7—9 Height: 18—24 in Flower color: Purple with prominent purple bracts ("rabbit ears") Fragrance: Mild compared to English types Bloom time: Spring (earliest lavender type to bloom)
Per Clemson HGIC, Spanish lavender is the best choice for gardeners in zones 8—9 who struggle with English lavender's heat and humidity intolerance. It blooms in spring when temperatures are still mild and goes partially dormant in summer heat. Not reliably hardy below zone 7 in most sites.
'Goodwin Creek Grey' (French × Spanish hybrid)
Zones: 7—11 Height: 24—30 in Flower color: Violet Fragrance: Moderate Notable trait: Continuous bloomer in mild climates; silver foliage year-round
Per Oregon State Extension, this hybrid is one of the most cold-tolerant lavenders that blooms nearly year-round in zones 9—10. Not adapted to zones below 7.
Growing lavender successfully in the Southeast (zones 7—8 humid)
Per Clemson HGIC, lavender is genuinely difficult in the humid Southeast due to crown fungal problems in summer heat and humidity. The practical requirements for success:
- Drainage is non-negotiable: raise beds 6—12 inches; incorporate 40—50% coarse grit or pea gravel into native soil; never plant in heavy clay
- Air circulation: space at minimum 24 inches; never crowd with other plants
- Minimal irrigation: established lavender needs water only in severe drought; overwatering in summer is the primary killer in the Southeast
- Annual pruning: cut back by one-third after bloom (not into woody stems); this prevents the woody base that causes crown rot
Per NC State Extension, English lavender varieties 'Hidcote', 'Munstead', and 'Vera' are the most reliable choices for the Southeast among English types. None will match Pacific Northwest performance.
Pruning
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, lavender should be pruned once per year — immediately after the main bloom flush in summer. Cut back by one-third to one-half of the green growth but do not cut into old woody stems below the green foliage zone. Cutting into woody stems often kills the plant by preventing regeneration from below the cut.
Common problems
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Plant dies in center, crown soft | Crown rot (Phytophthora) from waterlogged soil | Improve drainage; raise beds; reduce watering |
| Gray mold on stems | Botrytis in humid conditions | Improve air circulation; remove affected stems |
| Plant dies back in winter, zone 5—6 | Winter crown damage from wet soil freezing | Improve drainage; mulch with gravel (not bark) |
| Woody, non-blooming center | Normal aging; needs pruning | Hard prune in early spring; replace plants over 6—8 years old |
Frequently asked questions
Is all lavender culinary? No. Per Penn State Extension, Lavandula angustifolia (English lavender, including 'Munstead', 'Hidcote') is the culinary type with the mildest camphor content. Lavandin (L. × intermedia) has higher camphor content and a sharper flavor that some find unpleasant for culinary use. Spanish and French lavenders are not used in cooking.
Can I grow lavender in zone 4? Marginally. Per Missouri Botanical Garden, no lavender is reliably hardy below zone 5. In zone 4, the best options are 'Hidcote' or 'Munstead' in a sheltered south-facing microclimate with excellent drainage, with winter mulching. Success rate is low in open exposed sites.
How long do lavender plants live? Per NC State Extension, lavender plants typically have a productive garden life of 6—10 years before they become excessively woody and decline. Replace them rather than trying to rejuvenate severely woody specimens. New plants from cuttings are the standard replacement method.
Sources
- NC State Extension — Lavandula angustifolia
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Lavandula
- Penn State Extension — Lavender
- Clemson HGIC — Lavender
- Oregon State Extension — Lavender
- UMass Extension — Lavender Production