Apricot tree care
*Prunus armeniaca* -- the apricot -- is a stone fruit native to central Asia and widely cultivated across temperate climates. It is straightforward to grow where summers are dry (California, the Pacific Northwest, mountain west) and genuinely difficult in humid-summer climates east of the Rockies,.
—- title: "Apricot tree care" slug: apricot-tree-care hub: plants category: "Fruit tree guide" description: "How to grow apricot trees (Prunus armeniaca) in zones 5-9, manage the early-bloom frost risk, brown rot, and bacterial spot, and choose late-blooming varieties for cold climates." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 9 scientific: "Prunus armeniaca" zones_min: 5 zones_max: 9 sun: "full sun" —-
Prunus armeniaca — the apricot — is a stone fruit native to central Asia and widely cultivated across temperate climates. It is straightforward to grow where summers are dry (California, the Pacific Northwest, mountain west) and genuinely difficult in humid-summer climates east of the Rockies, where brown rot, bacterial spot, and — most critically — early bloom exposure to late spring frosts conspire to eliminate the crop in many years.
The fundamental challenge with apricots in zones 5-7 east of the Rockies is that the tree blooms earlier than almost any other fruit tree — weeks before apples and pears — and late frosts hit after bloom in many years. Per Penn State Extension, crop failures from late frost are a normal expectation in zones 5-7, not an unusual event.
I don't grow apricots at my Long Island plot. This guide is sourced from Penn State, Cornell, and Clemson Extension.
USDA hardiness zones
Per Penn State Extension, apricots are hardy in USDA zones 5-9. The tree itself survives zone 5 winters well. The problem is not winter cold but late spring frosts at bloom — the flowers, open buds, and young fruit are all damaged at 28-30°F.
Chilling hour requirements: most varieties need 700-900 hours below 45°F. In zones 8-9 with mild winters, choose low-chill varieties.
Variety selection: the bloom-time problem
Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, late-blooming varieties significantly reduce late-frost risk:
- Goldcot: Late bloomer; good flavor; cold-hardy; zones 4-8; one of the best for the Northeast
- Harcot: Late bloomer; sweet, apricot-flavored; zone 5-9; brown rot tolerant
- Hargrand: Large fruit; zone 5-9; late bloom; excellent flavor
- Moorpark: Classic apricot flavor; standard bloom time; zones 5-9; suitable for zones with less frost risk
- Sungold: Yellow skin, orange flesh; self-fruitful; zones 5-9; reasonably late
For zone 5-7 growers in the eastern US, Goldcot and Harcot are the best documented variety choices for reliability under frost pressure.
Light requirements
Per Clemson HGIC, apricots require full sun — 8 hours minimum. Site on elevated ground or a gentle slope to reduce late-frost risk (cold air drains downhill; elevated sites avoid frost pockets).
A south-facing slope provides earlier warming in spring but can advance bloom time, which is counterproductive in frost-prone areas. In zones 6-7, a north-facing slope or east-facing slope that warms more slowly can delay bloom and reduce frost damage — an unusual recommendation for fruit trees but documented for apricots per Cornell.
Rootstock selection
Per Penn State Extension:
- **Myrobalan plum (P. cerasifera):** Vigorous, standard to semi-standard; tolerates wet soils; widely used
- Nemaguard: Nematode-resistant; used in warm climates; not cold-hardy
- Lovell peach rootstock: Semi-standard size; good for most orchard soils
Semi-dwarfing rootstocks for apricot are less developed than for apples; most home orchard apricots are on standard or semi-standard rootstocks reaching 15-20 feet.
Pruning
Per Penn State Extension, train apricots to an open-center vase form, same as peaches. Annual dormant pruning removes dead and crossing wood, opens the canopy, and renews fruiting wood. Unlike peaches, apricots fruit on both one-year-old wood and on spurs — do not remove all older wood as aggressively as with peaches.
Prune in late winter before bud swell. In wet-winter climates, delay pruning until dry weather to reduce bacterial canker entry through wounds.
Fruit thinning
Per Penn State Extension, in years when frost does not eliminate the crop, thin apricots to 3-4 inches between fruits within 4-6 weeks of petal fall. In heavy-set years, failure to thin produces masses of small fruit with reduced flavor and increased disease pressure.
Disease management
**Brown rot (Monilinia fructicola):** Per Clemson HGIC, the primary disease in humid climates. Apply myclobutanil, captan, or propiconazole from petal fall at 10-14 day intervals through preharvest. Remove all mummies.
**Bacterial spot (Xanthomonas arboricola):** Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, water-soaked leaf spots, shot-holes, and sunken lesions on fruit. Worse in warm, wet springs. Copper sprays from petal fall reduce incidence; choose resistant varieties where available.
Cytospora canker: Gummy exudate from bark lesions on stressed trees. Per Penn State, maintain vigor; prune out infected wood; avoid nitrogen extremes.
Eutypa dieback: Serious in vineyards but occasionally affects apricots. Prune out affected wood.
Watering
Per Clemson HGIC, apricots are more drought-tolerant than peaches once established. Water young trees at 1 inch per week for establishment. Established trees need 1 inch per week during active growth; reduce in late summer to harden off. Drought stress in the final weeks before harvest can cause pit split — a disorder where the pit cracks inside the fruit.
Soil requirements
Per Penn State Extension, apricots grow best in:
- Well-drained, fertile sandy loam or loam
- pH 6.0-6.5
- Not tolerant of poorly-drained or wet soils
Common problems
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| No crop most years | Late spring frost killing flowers | Late-blooming varieties; elevated site |
| Brown fuzzy rot on fruit | Brown rot | Fungicide program from petal fall |
| Shot-hole lesions on leaves | Bacterial spot | Copper spray; resistant varieties |
| Gummy ooze from bark | Cytospora canker or borers | Prune infected wood; maintain tree vigor |
| Pit split in fruit | Drought stress before harvest | Consistent irrigation in final 3-4 weeks |
Frequently asked questions
Is growing apricots in zones 5-7 worth attempting? Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, it depends on expectations. In most zones 5-7 years east of the Rockies, late spring frosts will damage or eliminate the crop. However, "most years" is not "all years." A late-blooming variety on a well-selected site will produce a full crop in perhaps 3-5 of every 10 years in zone 6 — and in those years, home-grown tree-ripened apricots are extraordinary. Whether that yield-to-effort ratio is acceptable is a personal decision.
Can apricots cross-pollinate with peaches or plums? Per Penn State Extension, apricots are in the same genus (Prunus) as peaches, plums, and cherries, but do not cross-pollinate with other species. Most apricot varieties are self-fruitful; a few varieties benefit from a second variety of the same species for improved fruit set.
How long before an apricot tree produces fruit? Per Clemson HGIC, apricots typically produce their first crop in year 3-5 from a young container transplant, depending on rootstock and site conditions. First crops are usually small; full production develops by year 6-8.
Are apricot kernels edible? Per Penn State Extension, apricot kernels (inside the pit) contain amygdalin, which the body converts to hydrogen cyanide. Consuming large quantities can be toxic. Culinary use of apricot kernels in small amounts (such as in amaretto flavoring) has a long history in some cuisines, but consumption of raw kernels as a health food, as has been promoted in some non-scientific contexts, is not safe.
Sources
- Penn State Extension — Apricot production
- Cornell Cooperative Extension — Apricots in the Northeast
- Clemson HGIC — Apricot care